You can go to our website at www.LawnAmerica.com and go to the homepage of your local operator and enter in the contact information for your referral. We’ll take it from there and provide them with a free estimate and information on LawnAmerica. You know us well enough that we are not going to slam them and use high-pressure sales techniques. We’ll treat them right, and make you look good for referring LawnAmerica. If they begin service with us, we’ll send you a $25 Gift Card in the mail for you to enjoy.
For every new customer you refer to LawnAmerica that begins service with us, we’ll send you a $25 Gift Card from Applebee’s, or other local restaurants.
The official beginning of spring is next month, which is your opportunity to renew your lawn from a harsh winter. We normally do not recommend seeding of cool-season turf such as fescue and bluegrass in spring. Fall is a much better time to seed, since the seedlings will have a longer period of time to develop maturity before the summer heat hits the next year.
Cool-season grass will germinate if planted in March and April, but some of it may be too fragile to withstand the stress of summer heat and turf disease pressure from June to August. Also, if a pre-emergent herbicide has been applied this spring, your fescue seeds will not have much of a chance of germinating.
If your turf is very thin or bare, a homeowner may have no choice but to do some overseeding this Spring in order to help renew a thin fescue or bluegrass lawn. Keep in mind that if spring seeding is done, no pre-emergent can be applied, so expect more summer weeds to come up than otherwise would if pre-emergent weed-control would have been applied. If a pre-emergent has been applied, as long as the seedbed is aerated several times to break up the
pre-emergent barrier, your seed should still germinate.
Expect some of the seedlings not to make it through the summer, especially if we have another typical hot, dry stretch. You can then overseed in September or October if needed, which is the ideal time to do so.
If you have a warm-season lawn, remember NOT to scalp your lawn until the danger of a killing frost is over. In Oklahoma, this is usually mid-April, while down south in Texas, late March would be the earliest you should scalp. Never scalp a cool-season lawn.
If your turf is very thin or bare, a homeowner may have no choice but to do some overseeding this Spring in order to help renew a thin fescue or bluegrass lawn. Keep in mind that if spring seeding is done, no pre-emergent can be applied, so expect more summer weeds to come up than otherwise would if pre-emergent weed-control would have been applied. If a pre-emergent has been applied, as long as the seedbed is aerated several times to break up the
pre-emergent barrier, your seed should still germinate.
Expect some of the seedlings not to make it through the summer, especially if we have another typical hot, dry stretch. You can then overseed in September or October if needed, which is the ideal time to do so.
If you have a warm-season lawn, remember NOT to scalp your lawn until the danger of a killing frost is over. In Oklahoma, this is usually mid-April, while down south in Texas, late March would be the earliest you should scalp. Never scalp a cool-season lawn.
At LawnAmerica, we always take customer service and satisfaction very seriously. It is our passion.
So much, that we have added our LawnAmerica Guarantee to our service this year. I hate to sound like a broken record, but it’s on our website! It basically says, “If you are ever not pleased with our care for your lawn, contact us and we’ll promptly return to care for your lawn (re-spray, etc,), and return in 1-2 weeks to make sure you are pleased with our care.” You must let us know, by calling or with an e-mail, when you have questions or problems. We’ll then do all we can to address those until you are pleased.
In many areas, winter drought continues to be a problem. Normally, irrigating your lawn during winter is not that big of a deal. Not so if it’s been over three weeks without rainfall, or if your soil is very dry.
Even dormant bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine is alive, with a somewhat active root system during the winter. Cool-season turf such as fescue and bluegrass will benefit from irrigation at this time of year and green-up earlier this spring.
A good soaking once a week is fine for now. If we receive rainfall soon, you can cut back on that. And remember, you need to water in our pre-emergent applied within a few days of the application.
A good soaking once a week is fine for now. If we receive rainfall soon, you can cut back on that. And remember, you need to water in our pre-emergent applied within a few days of the application.
If there’s anything that sticks out like a sore thumb, it’s crabgrass in an otherwise beautiful lawn. This annual weed shows up like clockwork every spring, sprouting from seed and putting down roots quickly…then going to work giving lawns an overall ragged look. Left untreated, crabgrass will spread more and more each year. Eventually, its stalky stems and unsightly leaves will crowd out your good grass.
Since just one crabgrass plant can produce between 2,000 and 4,000 seeds per year, it’s important to put a stop to the problem before it gets started. The best way to do that is to treat your lawn with a
pre-emergent herbicide in early spring, before crabgrass seeds have a chance to sprout. At LawnAmerica, we use a product named Barricade, which is one of the best available.
Since just one crabgrass plant can produce between 2,000 and 4,000 seeds per year, it’s important to put a stop to the problem before it gets started. The best way to do that is to treat your lawn with a
pre-emergent herbicide in early spring, before crabgrass seeds have a chance to sprout. At LawnAmerica, we use a product named Barricade, which is one of the best available.
Pre-emergent herbicide acts as your lawn’s personal bodyguard. Applied to the top inch of your soil, it can cut down on crabgrass growth by killing the seeds as they begin germinating in mid-spring. When the small crabgrass plants die, the problem isn’t gone for good…it’s just hidden. Certain seeds can be kept from sprouting this season, but chances are that there are still other seeds in your soil that will begin germinating next spring or even years from now. New crabgrass seeds are constantly blown in and carried in by animals also. Crabgrass poses an ongoing threat to the health and beauty of your lawn, so yearly applications of
pre-emergent herbicide are a necessity.
pre-emergent herbicide are a necessity.
Pre-emergent herbicides do not prevent most broadleaf weeds from germinating. They will help somewhat on certain broadleaf weeds and other grassy weeds, but control in not real good. Other weeds such as Nutgrass are not prevented by pre-emergent products, so we’ll need to spray these weeds as they come up during the spring and summer.
Pre-emergents need to be watered into the soil a few days after application in order to move the product down into the soil. Once there, depending upon the type and rate applied, it will give you about 6 months of control. At LawnAmerica, we add liquid post-emergent into our spring mix, so that existing weeds are also killed and a broader range of broadleaf weeds are controlled.
When it comes to your lawn, prevention is the best medicine. Post-emergent controls can be used to treat crabgrass after it appears. However, since this weed tends to spread very quickly once it’s allowed to germinate, pre-emergent treatments are highly recommended. The best defense against weeds is also a thick, healthy, well-fertilized turf, so don’t neglect fertilizer applications as we get on into spring.
Pre-emergents need to be watered into the soil a few days after application in order to move the product down into the soil. Once there, depending upon the type and rate applied, it will give you about 6 months of control. At LawnAmerica, we add liquid post-emergent into our spring mix, so that existing weeds are also killed and a broader range of broadleaf weeds are controlled.
When it comes to your lawn, prevention is the best medicine. Post-emergent controls can be used to treat crabgrass after it appears. However, since this weed tends to spread very quickly once it’s allowed to germinate, pre-emergent treatments are highly recommended. The best defense against weeds is also a thick, healthy, well-fertilized turf, so don’t neglect fertilizer applications as we get on into spring.
The practice of chopping off the tops of crepe myrtles over the winter has become very common. Many folks believe this is necessary to promote flowering, but that is not necessarily the case. Pruning in late winter or early spring will stimulate vigorous new growth in spring, and may lead to slightly more blooms. However, they will bloom if pruning is not done.
Proper pruning can serve several purposes in plants, including crepe myrtles:
To encourage blooming or fruiting
To restrict growth
To train the plant into a certain shape
To improve the health of the plant
The main justification for pruning crepe myrtles is to develop the proper shape of the tree by removing suckers at the base and removing all limbs growing from ground level except 3-5 of the strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower, lateral branches up to one-third to halfway up the plant, and ones that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk, using good, sharp pruning shears.
Do corrective pruning to remove dead branches, and remove small twigs or branches in the center to create more open spaces for sun and air movement. If the plant is becoming to large, you can limb up or chop off the tops of the crepe myrtle in an attempt to keep it from becoming too large. Do not just cut it off at the same place every year though. If you have doubts about your ability to correctly prune, don’t hesitate to contact a local arborist.
Proper pruning can serve several purposes in plants, including crepe myrtles:
To encourage blooming or fruiting
To restrict growth
To train the plant into a certain shape
To improve the health of the plant
The main justification for pruning crepe myrtles is to develop the proper shape of the tree by removing suckers at the base and removing all limbs growing from ground level except 3-5 of the strongest limbs. As the tree matures, remove lower, lateral branches up to one-third to halfway up the plant, and ones that are crossing or rubbing against each other. Make your cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk, using good, sharp pruning shears.
Do corrective pruning to remove dead branches, and remove small twigs or branches in the center to create more open spaces for sun and air movement. If the plant is becoming to large, you can limb up or chop off the tops of the crepe myrtle in an attempt to keep it from becoming too large. Do not just cut it off at the same place every year though. If you have doubts about your ability to correctly prune, don’t hesitate to contact a local arborist.
Copyright - LawnAmerica, 2005